Saturday, January 6, 2018

Mini: Instructions

Mini : General Instructions

What's a Mini?
 Minis are tiny punch needle patterns. They range no larger than 3 1/2" x 3 1/2". Perfect for refrigerator magnets, tree ornaments, jewelry pendants or brooches here is a link on Pinterest for ideas on how to embellish a mini:
Here are the PINTEREST LINKS:
https://www.pinterest.com/KateGillery/mini-punch-needle-decorating-ideas/
https://www.pinterest.com/KateGillery/fiber-tree-decorations/
https://www.pinterest.com/KateGillery/punch-needle-mini-designs/

You will need embroidery floss, a one strand needle (CTR blue), a three strand punch needle,(CTR red) a threader, a sharp pair of scissors, weavers cloth and a hoop.

Let's break down the tools:


EMBROIDERY FLOSS
There are many kinds of floss. Most of the time I will use DMC, Gentle arts, and Weeks dye works for the minis. Possibly or should I say occasionally, Valdani Pearl cotton and Moire wool thread.

DMC, Gentle Arts, Weeks Dye works are six separate small strands wrap together to make a 6 strand floss. These flosses have to be separated when using one, two, three, four, or five strands. Here is a link to a wonderful video on YouTube by (Annette Rosanelli at Needlepointers.com) this video explains the way I separate my threads.

How to separate floss a Youtube Video

NEEDLES

I love the CTR brand needles, They are a joy to work with. You will need the 1 strand (Blue CTR), and the 3 strand (Red CTR).



The blue CTR, one strand can only be used with 1 strand of floss.
The red 3 strand is much more versatile, it excepts 2, 3 and 4 strands of floss.
We will be using the red CTR (3 strand) with 2 strands of the floss for the minis occasionally, but mainly the blue 1 strand CTR.

GAUGING YOUR NEEDLE




I set both needles with a fairly small loop. Measure the tip of the needle to the gauge it should be 10 mm or 6/8". To long a loop will not give you the detail you need.
I also sell the threaders with the gauge included that can be cut to any length you desire.

THREADERS

A must have for any punch needle project to thread the needle. I do have another link on how to thread your needle if your not familiar. Here is the link: http://punchneedletips.blogspot.com/search/label/Threading
The threader if new may give you a little trouble at first going through the 1 strand CTR but it does give way and gets easier after the first few times.
I also sell the threaders with the gauge included that can be cut to any length you desire.


SCISSORS

A sharp, very sharp pair of scissors. If your scissors are not sharp, you will have a tendency to pull the thread out when your trying to snip the ends.




WEAVERSCLOTH

You will need approximately a  9" x 11" inches. Which will be available in the shop if you like.  The good news is all the Mini patterns in my etsy shop come pre printed on the weavers cloth.


 


HOOP

I prefer the Morgan hoop. On the inside of the hoop there is a ridge that helps to keep your fabric drum tight. Your fabric must be tight or you will end up with different lengths of loops, also the loops may not form at all. Morgan also has a double hoop so you can be hands free. They are a bit pricey but well worth the investment.  I suggest the 5" or 7" hoop. The double would be the 7" and 10" or  5" and 7" Morgan Lap stand.

Want more information and instructions I have added a separate page on the side bar just for minis...head there now

Well there you have it....are you ready for the pattern?  Hop on over to my Etsy shop:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/briarcottage
Pick your favorites and have fun!

Kate

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Punching Tiny spaces

TIP: for punching tiny spaces, eyes, etc.


Let's talk about tiny spaces, notice the wagon wheels, this is a very small space.
Most people work small to large in a punch. Meaning you do all the small spaces first then work your way to larger spaces. I myself don't generally work that way, For the most part, I work the opposite. Because of the color coding, I like to get the colors and especially the tone values correct for you. Working the opposite helps me to do this! 
As a general rule, I do suggest you work small to large.


I follow many punchers on Facebook! Yeapers I do!
I see many punchers tend to overwork the tiny areas, eyes especially. 
Have you ever punched an eye where it looks like a big blob? It's much bigger in perspective to the rest of the face. Yeap, we all have at one time or another over punched a tiny area.
My suggestion: If you can fit 6 stitches in a tiny area, reduce it to 3 or 4.  This will help reduce the blob effect. A dot for an eye may only be 1 or 2 loops. Go ahead, punch one loop or 2 loops, don't worry they will hold. Here's what happens, As you continue to punch the loops around those one or two loops, the weavers cloth fibers or threads move and pinch the loops to hold them taught. Am I making sense I hope so. 

So as a helper guide: Don't over punch tiny areas.


Enjoy Punching,
Kate



Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Explanation: my patterns on Etsy


An explanation of my patterns:


The first page of a pattern: includes the name of the pattern, plus a punched picture of the pattern itself. This picture helps as a guide to the colors I have chosen. (Feel free to change the colors to anything that you wish). The Back gives you the Pattern number, It also lets you know whether or not the pattern includes a color code and which brand of flosses I chose for the finished product. The size of the pattern is at the top. and the rules for selling the finished product.


The next page is a black and white image (not reversed) for anyone that would like to use the image for use as a rug hooking pattern, embroidery pattern etc. These needleworkers use a transfer from the top of the canvas. Feel free to blow it up or shrink it down as you wish! 


front of punch

Now punch needle and rug punch are worked from the back. (In reverse) The pattern needs to be reversed, you will actually be working with the back of the pattern. When you turn it over the little loops then the become the front of the punch.



OK... The color code.....The final page is the color code. This page gives you the colors I used to complete the punch. They are suggestions, so please feel free to replace colors with the colors you prefer. Many of my patterns  have the actual thread color printed in the section itself...but over time I have added a letter to replace the actual thread color number. Hope this makes sense?....FOR EXAMPLE (A = 169) DMC floss number 169, so you would punch all the sections with an A in it with DMC floss color #169. This works like a paint by number. except its punch by number. Get it?


SO THAT IS THE PRINTED PAPER LISTING
OR THE
INSTANT DOWNLOADABLE PATTERN LISTING.

*************

PRINTED LISTINGS


Now in the Printed Listing, you have options. (printed listings are by snail mail only!)

When you order the Printed listing you will receive all the above, The front and back cover with photo of finished piece, the BW Pattern, the REVERSED pattern, and the color code all contained in a plastic sleeve to keep it safe.


Option 1).  just the paper pattern itself




Fat quarter of weavers cloth
Printed pattern


Option 2: You get the sleeved paper pattern, with a plain fat quarter of weavers cloth.
A fat quarter of fabric measures approximately: 18" by 22"


Fat quarter with printed pattern
Printed pattern

Option 3: The pattern in sleeve, plus a black and white image of the pattern reversed for punch needle on a fat quarter of weavers cloth.


I hope I was able to explain my Etsy patterns clearly. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below and I will try and answer them the best I can.

Happy Punching!
Kate

Monday, May 23, 2016

Finishing Christmas Ornaments



Finishing your Christmas Ornaments

You should have received a template for the backing and the batting with your pattern. 
If for some reason, you didn't, don't fret email me at: kgillery@gmail.com and I will email it to you ASAP.


Cut out your template. Remember don't use your fabric scissors. It will dull them very quickly.

Cut one of each for each ornament. 
I like to use wool as a backing and have chosen a antique black. (Available at many of the friendly Etsy shops). And quilt batting (available at your local fabric store).




Turn in the edges of the punch and press with a hot iron. Watch your fingers!





Pin all together punch, Batting then backing!

I like to blanket stitch around the edges, using valdani thread that accents the punch, maybe even the same color as the outer border. 



To finish I wound rusted wire around a dowel rod about 3 or four times and clipped. I made a larger one for the top and a smaller one for the bottom. Then using the same Valdani thread stitched it to the finished punch.

I plan to venture to local flea markets to add trinkets to the bottom. Such as keys, jewelry, anything that strikes my fancy.

Whaa-La!
A beautiful unique ornament for the coming Christmas!  





Sunday, January 31, 2016

Finishing Jack the Rabbit


"Jack the Rabbit" 
Bell Pull


First off enjoy punching Jack!
Cut a border leaving 1" off weavers cloth on all sides.


Fold and Iron the weavers cloth to the inside creating a hem. 
I use the hottest setting, and start with the long sides.


Then fold and iron the triangle at the bottom.


Both sides of the triangle, to create a point at the bottom.



Fold the corners in at the top and then iron towards the center.


All done ironing!


When you are finished with the ironing it should look like this.




I like to back my punch needles with wool. Cut the wool leaving about an 1/8" border around the punch. At the top leave approximately 2 1/2" to 3 inches for hanging  purposes. 


Pin your backing to the punch! add your tassel or bell etc. to the bottom and blanket stitch all layers!


I added a wool penny to the top and inserted a hole in the center so I could hang it on my cupboard where I keep a hook on the inside permanently for seasonal hanging. You could also use a command strip or a thumbtack.




All Finished and ready for your seasonal display! 
Hope this helps! 
Kate


Saturday, November 28, 2015

Easy Dots



It is always easiest to start with the little things first,
 then work your way to the background.


Jump from dot to dot, by placing your finger on the finished dot. 
Then pull a little loop to the next dot. Continue till the dots are filled.


Then using a small pair of scissors snip the remainder of the loops as close as you can to the dot. 
Don't worry they won't pull out.
Wa la Quick and easy!

Happy Punching,
 Kate

Sunday, November 15, 2015

Choosing your Fabric


Choosing your Fabric?

What kind of fabric should I punch on? This is one of the most common asked questions. Approximately 95% of the punchers will say weavers cloth. I would also like to say weavers cloth is not monks cloth these are two different fabrics. Weaver's cloth can be found at your local fabric store or online. The unfortunate part is most of the salespeople have no clue of what you are talking about, so it does turn into a hide and seek situation. It is usually found near the heavy weights, but keep in mind major fabric stores love to switch things around, to keep you on your toes!

End of Bolt from JoAnn Fabrics
WEAVERS CLOTH

LINEN

MONKS CLOTH
(NOT GOOD)


Now I want you to remember I am an artist and artists are always switching things up, trying new things, we love trial and error! So with that said.....I love trying new fabrics. 

Punched directly on Linen

Dress makers linen is one of my favorites! The color is gorgeous, and coffee stains beautifully for a primitive look! It is a bit different in the punch feel, a little looser, smoother, but holds the loops beautifully. There is also no need for a finished backing if you are going to finish your work as a foot stool or pillow etc. 

Punched Directly on Quilters Cotton

Quilters fabrics, are also one of the fabrics I have punch on, but keep in mind they are not as forgiving for mistakes, pulling the loops out does make the fibers weak. So be careful! Quilters fabric come in many prints so keep in mind, you work on the back of the punch, so your transfer must be on the back side of the printed fabric.


Punched on Gingham


Generally speaking, you need a close weave fabric. Punching a line of loops and then punching another line beside it - moves the threads of the fabric over to hold them in place. A loose weave fabric does not do this so watch that your fabrics are of a small weave or your loops will become uneven or even non existent.