Saturday, November 12, 2016

Punching Tiny spaces

TIP: for punching tiny spaces, eyes, etc.


Let's talk about tiny spaces, notice the wagon wheels, this is a very small space.
Most people work small to large in a punch. Meaning you do all the small spaces first then work your way to larger spaces. I myself don't generally work that way, For the most part, I work the opposite. Because of the color coding, I like to get the colors and especially the tone values correct for you. Working the opposite helps me to do this! 
As a general rule, I do suggest you work small to large.


I follow many punchers on Facebook! Yeapers I do!
I see many punchers tend to overwork the tiny areas, eyes especially. 
Have you ever punched an eye where it looks like a big blob? It's much bigger in perspective to the rest of the face. Yeap, we all have at one time or another over punched a tiny area.
My suggestion: If you can fit 6 stitches in a tiny area, reduce it to 3 or 4.  This will help reduce the blob effect. A dot for an eye may only be 1 or 2 loops. Go ahead, punch one loop or 2 loops, don't worry they will hold. Here's what happens, As you continue to punch the loops around those one or two loops, the weavers cloth fibers or threads move and pinch the loops to hold them taught. Am I making sense I hope so. 

So as a helper guide: Don't over punch tiny areas.


Enjoy Punching,
Kate



Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Explanation: my patterns on Etsy


An explanation of my patterns:


The first page of a pattern: includes the name of the pattern, plus a punched picture of the pattern itself. This picture helps as a guide to the colors I have chosen. (Feel free to change the colors to anything that you wish). The Back gives you the Pattern number, It also lets you know whether or not the pattern includes a color code and which brand of flosses I chose for the finished product. The size of the pattern is at the top. and the rules for selling the finished product.


The next page is a black and white image (not reversed) for anyone that would like to use the image for use as a rug hooking pattern, embroidery pattern etc. These needleworkers use a transfer from the top of the canvas. Feel free to blow it up or shrink it down as you wish! 


front of punch

Now punch needle and rug punch are worked from the back. (In reverse) The pattern needs to be reversed, you will actually be working with the back of the pattern. When you turn it over the little loops then the become the front of the punch.



OK... The color code.....The final page is the color code. This page gives you the colors I used to complete the punch. They are suggestions, so please feel free to replace colors with the colors you prefer. Many of my patterns  have the actual thread color printed in the section itself...but over time I have added a letter to replace the actual thread color number. Hope this makes sense?....FOR EXAMPLE (A = 169) DMC floss number 169, so you would punch all the sections with an A in it with DMC floss color #169. This works like a paint by number. except its punch by number. Get it?


SO THAT IS THE PRINTED PAPER LISTING
OR THE
INSTANT DOWNLOADABLE PATTERN LISTING.

*************

PRINTED LISTINGS


Now in the Printed Listing, you have options. (printed listings are by snail mail only!)

When you order the Printed listing you will receive all the above, The front and back cover with photo of finished piece, the BW Pattern, the REVERSED pattern, and the color code all contained in a plastic sleeve to keep it safe.


Option 1).  just the paper pattern itself




Fat quarter of weavers cloth
Printed pattern


Option 2: You get the sleeved paper pattern, with a plain fat quarter of weavers cloth.
A fat quarter of fabric measures approximately: 18" by 22"


Fat quarter with printed pattern
Printed pattern

Option 3: The pattern in sleeve, plus a black and white image of the pattern reversed for punch needle on a fat quarter of weavers cloth.


I hope I was able to explain my Etsy patterns clearly. If you have any questions please feel free to comment below and I will try and answer them the best I can.

Happy Punching!
Kate

Monday, May 23, 2016

Finishing Christmas Ornaments



Finishing your Christmas Ornaments

You should have received a template for the backing and the batting with your pattern. 
If for some reason, you didn't, don't fret email me at: kgillery@gmail.com and I will email it to you ASAP.


Cut out your template. Remember don't use your fabric scissors. It will dull them very quickly.

Cut one of each for each ornament. 
I like to use wool as a backing and have chosen a antique black. (Available at many of the friendly Etsy shops). And quilt batting (available at your local fabric store).




Turn in the edges of the punch and press with a hot iron. Watch your fingers!





Pin all together punch, Batting then backing!

I like to blanket stitch around the edges, using valdani thread that accents the punch, maybe even the same color as the outer border. 



To finish I wound rusted wire around a dowel rod about 3 or four times and clipped. I made a larger one for the top and a smaller one for the bottom. Then using the same Valdani thread stitched it to the finished punch.

I plan to venture to local flea markets to add trinkets to the bottom. Such as keys, jewelry, anything that strikes my fancy.

Whaa-La!
A beautiful unique ornament for the coming Christmas!  





Sunday, January 31, 2016

Finishing Jack the Rabbit


"Jack the Rabbit" 
Bell Pull


First off enjoy punching Jack!
Cut a border leaving 1" off weavers cloth on all sides.


Fold and Iron the weavers cloth to the inside creating a hem. 
I use the hottest setting, and start with the long sides.


Then fold and iron the triangle at the bottom.


Both sides of the triangle, to create a point at the bottom.



Fold the corners in at the top and then iron towards the center.


All done ironing!


When you are finished with the ironing it should look like this.




I like to back my punch needles with wool. Cut the wool leaving about an 1/8" border around the punch. At the top leave approximately 2 1/2" to 3 inches for hanging  purposes. 


Pin your backing to the punch! add your tassel or bell etc. to the bottom and blanket stitch all layers!


I added a wool penny to the top and inserted a hole in the center so I could hang it on my cupboard where I keep a hook on the inside permanently for seasonal hanging. You could also use a command strip or a thumbtack.




All Finished and ready for your seasonal display! 
Hope this helps! 
Kate


Saturday, November 28, 2015

Easy Dots



It is always easiest to start with the little things first,
 then work your way to the background.


Jump from dot to dot, by placing your finger on the finished dot. 
Then pull a little loop to the next dot. Continue till the dots are filled.


Then using a small pair of scissors snip the remainder of the loops as close as you can to the dot. 
Don't worry they won't pull out.
Wa la Quick and easy!

Happy Punching,
 Kate

Sunday, November 15, 2015

Choosing your Fabric


Choosing your Fabric?

What kind of fabric should I punch on? This is one of the most common asked questions. Approximately 95% of the punchers will say weavers cloth. I would also like to say weavers cloth is not monks cloth these are two different fabrics. Weaver's cloth can be found at your local fabric store or online. The unfortunate part is most of the salespeople have no clue of what you are talking about, so it does turn into a hide and seek situation. It is usually found near the heavy weights, but keep in mind major fabric stores love to switch things around, to keep you on your toes!

End of Bolt from JoAnn Fabrics
WEAVERS CLOTH

LINEN

MONKS CLOTH
(NOT GOOD)


Now I want you to remember I am an artist and artists are always switching things up, trying new things, we love trial and error! So with that said.....I love trying new fabrics. 

Punched directly on Linen

Dress makers linen is one of my favorites! The color is gorgeous, and coffee stains beautifully for a primitive look! It is a bit different in the punch feel, a little looser, smoother, but holds the loops beautifully. There is also no need for a finished backing if you are going to finish your work as a foot stool or pillow etc. 

Punched Directly on Quilters Cotton

Quilters fabrics, are also one of the fabrics I have punch on, but keep in mind they are not as forgiving for mistakes, pulling the loops out does make the fibers weak. So be careful! Quilters fabric come in many prints so keep in mind, you work on the back of the punch, so your transfer must be on the back side of the printed fabric.


Punched on Gingham


Generally speaking, you need a close weave fabric. Punching a line of loops and then punching another line beside it - moves the threads of the fabric over to hold them in place. A loose weave fabric does not do this so watch that your fabrics are of a small weave or your loops will become uneven or even non existent.

Monday, October 19, 2015

Hoops vs Frames




 HOOP vs FRAME

Common Embroidery Hoop

You can use a common embroidery hoop, but let me point out, your fabric has got to be drum tight to punch, or your loops will be uneven. When using a common embroidery hoop the fabric tends to loosen up as you work and you will you’ll find you are always pulling the fabric to make it tight. 

Morgan Hoop

Detail of groove on the Morgan Hoop


The Morgan Hoop is engineered to hold the fabric taut. It has a groove in the ring that keeps the fabric in place. They come in a variety of sizes from 5”, 7”, 9”, 10”, 12”, 14”, and 17” diameter.


They also have a lap stand that holds two usable hoops one smaller on larger (varying sizes also) to set on your lap as you work.



I also found there is a floor stand that hold varying hoop sizes. Until I started researching this post. I never knew they existed. 
Isn't it wonderful to be constantly learning.

They are a good investment but perhaps wait until you know if this hobby is the hobby for you.
Many people swear by the Morgan Hoop and never switch to a frame.

 I also want to point out that with any hobby or craft the better the tools the more enjoyable you will find your process.

Grubers rug hooking frame
If you find this is something you will do daily. I suggest a hooker frame. A hooker frame is about 14” x 14” square, and has gripper strips on the edges, with gnarly little teeth on all four sides.  These little teeth can draw blood if you are not careful, sounds like a monster I know, but I love mine. 

My Punching Area
I mounted mine to a small table at a straight back height, for the purpose of good posture. Be careful, holding a hoop can eventually give you arthritis and to help prevent this, a hookers frame is the way to go!

Detail of Pivot on Hooker frame

Let me also add, a frame with a center pivot point affords you the ability to spin your work without removing it.
If you decide you would also like to try rug hooking with wool strips, the hookers frame can be used for this also, so it is dual duty.

There are many frames on the market. You can Google Hookers Frames and make the appropriate choice for you.

There are many choices on the market for hoops and frames. These are just two, they are simply suggestions. Google, shop and enjoy the buying experience. I know at first it seems daunting and you're excited to get started or try new equipment but take the time and do the research. It is all part of the fun of Punch Needle!

Happy Shopping, 
Kate

Next post Fabrics!