Easy Dots

It is always easiest to start with the little things first,

 then work your way to the background.

Jump from dot to dot, by placing your finger on the finished dot. 

Then pull a little loop to the next dot. Continue till the dots are filled.

Then using a small pair of scissors snip the remainder of the loops as close as you can to the dot. 

Don't worry they won't pull out.

Wa la Quick and easy!

Happy Punching,

 Kate

Choosing your Fabric

Choosing your Fabric?

What kind of fabric should I punch on? This is one of the most common asked questions. Approximately 95% of the punchers will say weavers cloth. I would also like to say weavers cloth is not monks cloth these are two different fabrics. Weaver's cloth can be found at your local fabric store or online. The unfortunate part is most of the salespeople have no clue of what you are talking about, so it does turn into a hide and seek situation. It is usually found near the heavy weights, but keep in mind major fabric stores love to switch things around, to keep you on your toes!

End of Bolt from JoAnn Fabrics

WEAVERS CLOTH

LINEN

MONKS CLOTH
(NOT GOOD)

Now I want you to remember I am an artist and artists are always switching things up, trying new things, we love trial and error! So with that said.....I love trying new fabrics. 

Punched directly on Linen

Dress makers linen is one of my favorites! The color is gorgeous, and coffee stains beautifully for a primitive look! It is a bit different in the punch feel, a little looser, smoother, but holds the loops beautifully. There is also no need for a finished backing if you are going to finish your work as a foot stool or pillow etc. 

Punched Directly on Quilters Cotton

Quilters fabrics, are also one of the fabrics I have punch on, but keep in mind they are not as forgiving for mistakes, pulling the loops out does make the fibers weak. So be careful! Quilters fabric come in many prints so keep in mind, you work on the back of the punch, so your transfer must be on the back side of the printed fabric.

Punched on Gingham

Generally speaking, you need a close weave fabric. Punching a line of loops and then punching another line beside it - moves the threads of the fabric over to hold them in place. A loose weave fabric does not do this so watch that your fabrics are of a small weave or your loops will become uneven or even non existent.

Hoops vs Frames

 HOOP vs FRAME

Common Embroidery Hoop

You can use a common embroidery hoop, but let me point out, your fabric has got to be drum tight to punch, or your loops will be uneven. When using a common embroidery hoop the fabric tends to loosen up as you work and you will you’ll find you are always pulling the fabric to make it tight. 

Morgan Hoop

Detail of groove on the Morgan Hoop

The Morgan Hoop is engineered to hold the fabric taut. It has a groove in the ring that keeps the fabric in place. They come in a variety of sizes from 5”, 7”, 9”, 10”, 12”, 14”, and 17” diameter.

They also have a lap stand that holds two usable hoops one smaller on larger (varying sizes also) to set on your lap as you work.

I also found there is a floor stand that hold varying hoop sizes. Until I started researching this post. I never knew they existed. 

Isn't it wonderful to be constantly learning.

They are a good investment but perhaps wait until you know if this hobby is the hobby for you.

Many people swear by the Morgan Hoop and never switch to a frame.

 I also want to point out that with any hobby or craft the better the tools the more enjoyable you will find your process.

Grubers rug hooking frame

If you find this is something you will do daily. I suggest a hooker frame. A hooker frame is about 14” x 14” square, and has gripper strips on the edges, with gnarly little teeth on all four sides.  These little teeth can draw blood if you are not careful, sounds like a monster I know, but I love mine. 

My Punching Area

I mounted mine to a small table at a straight back height, for the purpose of good posture. Be careful, holding a hoop can eventually give you arthritis and to help prevent this, a hookers frame is the way to go!

Detail of Pivot on Hooker frame

Let me also add, a frame with a center pivot point affords you the ability to spin your work without removing it.

If you decide you would also like to try rug hooking with wool strips, the hookers frame can be used for this also, so it is dual duty.

There are many frames on the market. You can Google Hookers Frames and make the appropriate choice for you.

There are many choices on the market for hoops and frames. These are just two, they are simply suggestions. Google, shop and enjoy the buying experience. I know at first it seems daunting and you're excited to get started or try new equipment but take the time and do the research. It is all part of the fun of Punch Needle!

Happy Shopping, 

Kate

Next post Fabrics!

Gauge your Needle

Gauge your Needle

When gauging your needle, you are setting your loop length. 

Means how long your loops will be on the finished side. 

I guess I should explain at this point that you work from the back of the piece, the finished side is on the back or the loop side.

Cameo Ultra Punch

The Cameo Ultra Punch has a little gauge on the side with a tiny nib. It allows you to set your needle length accordingly. Number one being the smallest needle length or loop length, 12 being the longest needle length or loop length.

When punching the tip of the blue plastic is the stop point for the fabric. With each punch or loop made the blue tip should hit the fabric. This will help keep your loops even in length.

This is the inside of the Cameo. Notice the spring. This is what allows you to adjust the little nib. If it is missing then your needle will not adjust or work properly.

This picture is of the needle adjusted all the way in so the needle at the top is not showing at all.

This is a good way to store your needle so as not to damage the needle tip.

Picture above: Notice the length of the needle this is shortest needle size or loop length set at 1.

Picture below: This is the needle set at 12, the longest needle length or loop size.

In general the length of the loop is approximately half the size of needle length. 

Meaning:1/2 going down, loop, half coming back. 

TIP: I believe most Cameo punchers use setting 1 or 2.

..I am not a Cameo user but I believe this is case.

CTR 3 strand Needle

I am showing the three strand CTR needle, but all of the needles one, three and six work the same way.

Setting your CTR! Again, the length of the needle is the setting for the length of the loop.

The CTR comes with a plastic sleeve that fits over the needle (gauge material in the picture).

You adjust by adding or removing, snipping the sleeve. You can add the snipped portion of the sleeve or keep it whole. My prefered length for the needle not the gauge, is 7/16 th of an inch to 1/2 of an inch. The gauge material is the fabric stop point. When you punch you should hit the fabric with every loop made. This insures the loops will be even.

You can purchase extra gauge material for your CTR's, it also comes with 5 threaders.

It comes with a rubber tube sleeve to slip over the needle to protect the needle tip and a tube to store it in when not in use. I also use the plastic tube to store the threaders and extra gauge.

CTR also sells a product called The "Haystack" to store all the needles, threaders and gauge in one convenient place.

Top needle and loops 7/16th of an inch.

Bottom needle and punch 1 1/4 inches.

In conclusion: I  rarely change my loop length but every once in awhile I will change and make the loop length a titch longer to give a outline or whiskers a little added length to help make them more distinct. Changing the loop length or gauge is very easy on both the CTR and the Cameo Ultra Punch.

Coming up in the next post Hoops and Frames.

Happy Punching,

Kate

Threaders-Threading your Needle

CAMEO ULTRA PUNCH NEEDLE & THREADER

Cameo Ultra Punch Needle including handle: (6" long)

Cameo Ultra punch threader: (9 1/4" long) 

Feed the threader up through the needle tube and handle until the threader comes out the top, The threader tape will stop the needle from slipping all the way through.  Next feed the  thread through the threader eye and gently pull up so the thread locks into the threader eye. Pull the thread through the needle handle until the thread comes out the tip. Release the thread from the threader by gently pulling down.

  

Next, thread the threader from back to front of the needle eye. Note: the front of the needle is the section that is beveled. The picture shows the beveled front of the needle.

 IMPORTANT:

If you thread the needle from front to back your loops will not form.

This is a common mistake with beginners! 

  

When you have inserted the threader, insert the thread through the threader.   Pull up gently to lock your thread into the top of the threader and pull the threader through the needle eye. 

This is the way your threaded needle should look.

NOTICE: The thread comes down the neck of the needle and thru the eye.

Remove the threader. And you're ready to punch!

CTR THREE STRAND NEEDLE & THREADER

This is the CTR Needle with a CTR 

(Threader: 5 1/4" long) 

(Needle Length including handle: 3 1/4")

  

Beveled front of needle and close up of threader.

Close up of side view of needle, notice again the pointed beveled edge.

Insert threader up the neck of the needle starting from the needle end, loop end of threader first.

This is a picture showing the threader inserted up the neck of the needle, notice the loop of the threader is now out the top with plenty of the threader to grasp out the bottom.

NOTICE: The silver bar on the needle itself this is there to show you the front, beveled side of your needle.

Insert the thread through the loop of the threader, gently pull up to lock the thread into place. Be gentle so as not to pull the threader out of the needle at the bottom.

Pull the threader through the neck of the needle and out the tip.

Pull the thread long enough out of the tip, about three to four inches,  leave the thread in the threader and immediately without re-threading the threader......

  

place the end of the threader thru the front beveled side or front of the needle eye....

to the back of the needle eye as shown.

NOTE: unlike the Cameo you only have to thread the threader once, a bonus when punching.

Your needle is now threaded and you're ready to punch!

Once you get the hang of threading the needle it will become second nature. 

If you are having trouble and the loops are not forming your problem is more often than not the threading of the needle. There are also many videos available to help you on youtube. 

Next in Punch Needle Tips:

Adjusting and gauging the needle length

Happy Punching,

Kate

The Punch Needle

Punch Needles

I have found with many punchers that they have their own personal preferences. It is usually the one they started with, the one they became familiar with. As with most tools the better the tool the better the finished product. There are many needles on the market. But as a rule, it boils down to two or three favorites. I'll try and give a brief description on two of these, the Ultra Punch Cameo and the CTR's.

Bottom to top: (blue) CTR one strand needle, (red) CTR three strand needle, (black) six strand needle, (blue) Ultra punch Cameo needle medium, (Green) Daisy Three strand Needle.

Bottom to top: (blue) one strand CTR, (red) three strand CTR, (black) six strand CTR, (blue)  six strand medium Cameo Ultra Punch

A punch needle comes basically in three sizes: small, medium and large. I am not referring to the handle or the overall dimensions but the metal needle itself. I am referring to the thickness of the metal needle. In the CTR needles my preferred needle, small (blue) is for use with one strand of floss. medium (red) is for 2, 3 or 4 strands of floss, and the large (black) is for 4, 5, or 6 six strands of floss. Keep in mind the Cameo does not hold true to this. The small Cameo is for 3 strands, the medium for 6 strands and the large is for wool weight yarns. So if you are going to punch any small details I would suggest the CTR needles. 

The Ultra Punch Cameo is larger in overall dimension. It almost looks like a pen. It has an adjustable needle length, easily adjusted with a little nub on the side. It is made of plastic and to me the metal needle itself is generally thicker than most other brands of needles. I do own one of these but do not use it.   Again, it is not my preferred needle because of the thickness of the metal needle itself. Many people swear by it because it's like holding a pen. I personally find it cumbersome and not easy to thread. 

 Comparison: The CTR is made of metal, a more substantial material, lightweight and very easy to maneuver. The loop length is adjusted by the little sectioned rubber sleeves that slip over the needle and works as a stop point against the fabric. To be honest it is a very rare occasion that I change the loop length. The metal needle itself is fine and slides through the fabric like butter. The overall benefit is the ability to change your needle for smaller areas and detail work. In addition is much easier to thread than the Cameo, which is a huge bonus.

Super Luxo Needle

In conclusion there are many different needles available on the web, Cameo and CTR are the two most popular. It is of my opinion that if you are punching strictly six strand punches then consider the Cameo. If you are planning to punch with small detail or are considering punching small punches like brooches then consider the CTR.

I hope this has been helpful and has answered any questions you may have on the difference between CTR's and Cameo's. If you need or have any more questions please leave a comment in the comment box and I will try and answer it to the best of my knowledge.

The next post threading the CTR and Cameo needles.

Thank you and Happy Punching!

Kate